Go Back   Mustang Forums at StangNet > Mustang Forums > 2.3L Mustang > 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech
Reload this Page Rebuild or replace 2.3 T?
Notices
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes

This THREAD brought to you by...
(#1 (permalink))
Old
NotA5oh's Avatar
Official Member
 
Posts: 216
Join Date: January 2003
Location: Sequim, Washington
Rebuild or replace 2.3 T? - 12-02-03, 12:38 PM

My 2.3 turbo engine is spitting alot of oil out of the dipstick when any boost is created and I think I screwed up the rings or something in there. Anyway would it be cheaper to rebuild the engine with forged internals or replace the entire engine? What are the best pistions or the best rebuild kit to buy and where would something like that be available?


Reply With Quote
(#2 (permalink))
Old
CruzNlife1's Avatar
Founding Member
 
Posts: 1,419
Join Date: February 2002
Location: West Palm Beach
12-02-03, 01:30 PM

You put the turbo on the n/a engine or is this an actual turbomotor, in any case, I'd check the PCV Valve




1998 Ranger 2.3T T5
PORTED BIG Valve/BIG Cam/Double Springs
Externaly Gated HY35, MT Standalone, Powerstroke IC, Worked Intakes, Header, ALKY Coming

450 to the wheels or bust
Reply With Quote
(#3 (permalink))
Old
NotA5oh's Avatar
Official Member
 
Posts: 216
Join Date: January 2003
Location: Sequim, Washington
12-02-03, 02:41 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CruzNlife1
You put the turbo on the n/a engine or is this an actual turbomotor, in any case, I'd check the PCV Valve
The PCV valve has been replaced 2 times so i know its not that. and its a real turbo motor, from a 88 thunderbird.


Reply With Quote
(#4 (permalink))
Old
Stinger's Avatar
Founding Member
 
Posts: 7,720
Join Date: July 2001
Location: Wilson, KS
12-02-03, 07:14 PM

Do a compression check before you get too serious about rebuilding.

Most likely the pistons are fine and you won't have to replace them. In that case you can rebuild it for 135 bucks (price of rings, bearings, and gaskets) plus the price of a hone job. This is assuming you can do it yourself. If you have to pay someone to do it then it will definately be cheaper to drop another motor in.

Stinger


Reply With Quote
(#5 (permalink))
Old
GT350R's Avatar
Super Stanger
 
Posts: 717
Join Date: October 2000
Location: In her "pewper"
12-02-03, 11:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by NotA5oh
The PCV valve has been replaced 2 times so i know its not that. and its a real turbo motor, from a 88 thunderbird.
Is it a Ford valve?

If not, go outside and lay a big steaming turd on the ground. Pick it up and shove it in the hose. THAT will work better then an aftermarket PCV valve.

There is a reason that the right PCV valve cost over 10 bucks, while all overs are a dollar or two.



Last edited by GT350R; 12-02-03 at 11:25 PM.
Reply With Quote
(#6 (permalink))
Old
NotA5oh's Avatar
Official Member
 
Posts: 216
Join Date: January 2003
Location: Sequim, Washington
12-03-03, 11:40 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by GT350R
Is it a Ford valve?

If not, go outside and lay a big steaming turd on the ground. Pick it up and shove it in the hose. THAT will work better then an aftermarket PCV valve.

There is a reason that the right PCV valve cost over 10 bucks, while all overs are a dollar or two.
Do you realy think the reason my car is spitting oil out of the dipstick all over my brake booster and half my engine bay is because I bought a PCV valve from schucks and not ford? Is there that much of a difference?

Another thing, when I put that new valve on it was sucking alot of air out of the top opening thing so I put the cap that it came with on the second opening? Might that have something to do with it?


Reply With Quote
(#7 (permalink))
Old
Stinger's Avatar
Founding Member
 
Posts: 7,720
Join Date: July 2001
Location: Wilson, KS
12-03-03, 01:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by NotA5oh
Do you realy think the reason my car is spitting oil out of the dipstick all over my brake booster and half my engine bay is because I bought a PCV valve from schucks and not ford? Is there that much of a difference?

Another thing, when I put that new valve on it was sucking alot of air out of the top opening thing so I put the cap that it came with on the second opening? Might that have something to do with it?
Yes, it makes that much of a difference.

You shouldn't have to or even be able to use the little extra piece that comes with the valve...you should just slide each end into the hose.

Stinger


Reply With Quote
(#8 (permalink))
Old
Windsor II
 
Posts: 4,294
Join Date: March 1999
Location: Snohomish, WA
12-03-03, 03:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by NotA5oh
Do you realy think the reason my car is spitting oil out of the dipstick all over my brake booster and half my engine bay is because I bought a PCV valve from schucks and not ford? Is there that much of a difference?

Another thing, when I put that new valve on it was sucking alot of air out of the top opening thing so I put the cap that it came with on the second opening? Might that have something to do with it?
Absolutely the reason, they do make that much of a difference. When you have any boost in the intake manifold, it blows right past the cheap PCV valve into your crankcase. The crankcase then blows oil out anything it can....seals, gaskets, DIPSTICK. This even happens on N/A engines with a faulty (clogged) pcv and clogged vent.


Reply With Quote
(#9 (permalink))
Old
Member
 
Posts: 6
Join Date: October 2002
Location: Kelso, Wa
02-11-04, 08:58 PM

I realize this post is about 2 months old but, when you pull up to a stop do you let the motor idle for awhile? If not and you have been getting into the turbo, this could be caused from a bad internal seal in the turbo. You will still be building boost but you leak oil from the oil feed into the compressor side. Pull your down pipe and see if you have oil residue in there. You may need to get your turbo rebuilt. This was the problem with my turbo car and it was pushing oil all over the place and smoking bad whenever it spooled.




http://pat83t.tripod.com

ASE certified parts specialist.
Reply With Quote
(#10 (permalink))
Old
NotA5oh's Avatar
Official Member
 
Posts: 216
Join Date: January 2003
Location: Sequim, Washington
02-12-04, 12:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by pat83t
I realize this post is about 2 months old but, when you pull up to a stop do you let the motor idle for awhile? If not and you have been getting into the turbo, this could be caused from a bad internal seal in the turbo. You will still be building boost but you leak oil from the oil feed into the compressor side. Pull your down pipe and see if you have oil residue in there. You may need to get your turbo rebuilt. This was the problem with my turbo car and it was pushing oil all over the place and smoking bad whenever it spooled.
Thanks for the help, but I have given up on that car, sold it. Took a loss with all the time and money i have put into it but it was just gitting deeper in problems and my money, so its gone now, I will probly regret it someday but for now I dont have any more worrys.

When I dont have so much stress and alot more time, I will get another mustang, but for now I am in college and working 35 hours a week, so I can't keep up with it. I have a Nissan maxima now and plan on keeping it stock so that it will be a car i dont worry about.




1996 Black SVT Cobra
T56 Trans. swap with Steeda Tri-Axe shifter
Aluminum Driveshaft
11" Aluminum Flywheel / Clutch upgrade
KYB adjustable shocks
M/T Street slicks
(Sold) 1991 lx hatch back, 2.3 turbo swap
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump